History of the State of California

From Panama, steamships of superior size and accommodation, convey passengers to San Francisco. Starting from the front of the city, the beautiful bay, with its semi-circular shores skirted with green foliage and inclosed with high mountains, and the lofty islands of Flamingo, Perico, Taboga, and others, present themselves to the view. At the island of Taboga, all the vessels that come into the bay obtain their supplies, and the Pacific Mail Steamship Company have established their depot for coal, &c., on its shores. After obtaining all the necessary supplies the steamship moves out of the bay, rounding Point Mala. The voyage upon the Pacific, with all its variety of incident and scenery, then commences. The principal annoyance of travellers is the almost intolerable heat of the sun and furnaces of the steamship united. Water-spouts and different species of whale are frequent sights. North of the Gulf of Tehuantepec, the steamer nears the land, and the bold mountain coast of Mexico breaks upon the view, and, at night, the passengers enjoy a view of the glaring light produced by the burning volcano of Colima; though the volcano itself is but imperfectly seen being at the distance of ninety miles from the vessel. Soon after this fades from the view, the islands off the town of San Blas appear, and an immense white rock, isolated from the sea, serving as a lighthouse to ships steering for the port. At San Blas, the steamships remain some time, to obtain supplies of coal, fresh fruits, and provisions. These indispensables having been procured, the vessel proceeds upon her voyage. Cape Corientes next appears, and, soon afterwards, the entrance to the Gulf of California is approached; and then, Cape San Lucas, the extreme southern point of California, with its mountains and rocky shores, is hailed by the traveller as the first portion of the "promised land" that greets his sight. Passing along the western coast of the peninsula, the island and bay of Magdalena appear, with shores three or four thousand feet above the sea. Next, the towering ridges of Cerros Isles are passed, and the bold, rocky shores of the peninsula are in continual view. The change of the temperature of the air is generally keenly felt by those who do not take care to provide against it. Within a few days after leaving Panama, the thermometer falls from 95° to 55°, and such a change must have an injurious effect, if additional clothing is not put on to meet it.

The first portion of Upper California, or, the "Golden Land," which presents itself to the voyagers, is the Ceronados, two high, round-topped rocks off the port of San Diego. Then the beautiful, semi-circular harbor is entered, and if wanting, supplies are obtained from the town. From the harbor of San Diego, the vessel proceeds along the coast of California, and the towering peaks of the coast range of mountains, engage the attention. The high promontory of St. Vincent is passed, and then the open bay of Monterey is entered, and passengers are either let off the steamer or taken aboard as necessity may occasion. From Monterey the steamer keeps along the coast, and mountainous shores alone meet the view, until the voyagers come in sight of the Farallones, two large detached rocks at the southern side of the entrance to the bay of San Francisco. Then the Golden Gate, as the strait or entrance is called, is entered by the steamer, and the perpendicular cliffs and hills upon each shore afford matter for wonder. The strait is about three miles long, and from one to two miles broad. As the vessel reaches its terminus, the great bay of San Francisco opens to the view, looking like a miniature ocean. Bird Island, Wood Island, Angel Island, with the beautiful little bay of Sancelito, successively meet the gaze, and very soon the steamer is anchored, having reached her destination. Such is the Isthmus route to the "gold region." It is the shortest route, or the one which occupies the least time in traversing, presents great variety, and upon the whole, its beauties and pleasures outnumber the difficulties and annoyances.

THE OVERLAND ROUTE

We now proceed to give the general character and direction of that which is considered the best land route to California, and which is the most travelled by emigrants. The principal advantage possessed by this route may be stated in a few words. It is the shortest route to the bay of San Francisco and the gold region. The Indians upon the route are friendly and very few acts of hostility have been committed. The trail is plain and good where there are no physical obstructions. To these must be added the certainty of the emigrants reaching their place of destination, in good season; which will not exist, if new and unexplored routes are attempted. The greatest calamities and sufferings have been endured by those who have either taken an entirely different route, or deviated from the line which we will describe. Advice concerning the time of starting, preparations, &c., will be interspersed in the description.

The starting point, and the general rendezvous for emigrants, is the town of Independence, Missouri, situated about six miles from the Missouri River, on the south side of it. This town has been, for many years, the principal outfitting point for the Santa Fe traders, and contains about two thousand inhabitants. Emigrants should be at the starting place by the 20th of April, and start upon their journey as soon thereafter as the grass will permit. The outfit of companies of emigrants would be too tedious to mention, and as it varies considerably, from differences of means and taste, a description would hardly be accurate. But there are certain things which are indispensable to those who take this route, and these we will mention. With respect to wagons and teams, the lightest wagon that can be constructed of sufficient strength to carry 2,500 pounds weight, is the vehicle most desirable. This can be drawn by three or four yokes of oxen, or six mules; oxen are usually employed for this purpose. Pack mules can only be employed by parties of men; but the journey can be made in great deal less time with mules than with oxen. The provisions taken by the companies, consist mainly of flour, bacon, coffee, and sugar; besides these indispensables, there is rice, crackers, salt, pepper, and other luxuries of light weight. As to the quantity necessary, that may be determined by considering the length of the route and the average number of miles which the emigrants travel per day. From Independence to the first settlement in California, which is near the gold region, it is about two thousand and fifty miles – to San Francisco, 2,290 miles. Oxen teams travel about fifteen miles per day upon an average. At that rate, it would require one hundred and thirty-one days to reach the first settlement in California. Allowance should be made for stoppages by accident. Every man should be provided with a good rifle, a pair of pistols, with a quantity of ammunition, and a bowie knife and hatchet, in his belt. A set of carpenter's tools is also necessary.

Starting from Independence, and travelling a few miles over a good road, the first prairie opens upon the view. This is called the Blue Prairie, and presents a surface undulating and clothed with rich verdure. In crossing this prairie, violent storms often overtake the emigrants, and to those who have not been accustomed to it, the scene during the storm is terrifically grand. Fourteen miles travel upon the prairie brings the emigrants to the "Blue Creek," which is fordable, except after a heavy rain. Fording the creek and crossing the timbered bottom of the stream, another magnificent prairie is entered, which is beyond the Missouri line, and within the Indian territory. Sixteen miles travel over this beautiful plain brings the emigrant to Indian Creek, the banks of which usually serve for a place of encampment. The prairie offers the best pasturage for cattle; but constant watching is necessary to keep them from straying away and returning to the settlements. From Indian Creek, the emigrants proceed across the prairie, along the Santa Fe trail, for about fifteen miles, and then leave it, turning off to the right hand. Crossing several deep ravines, which are very difficult of passage in rainy weather, the emigrants arrive on the banks of the Werkarusa Creek. This is another favorite place of encampment, groves of trees being on each side of it. From this creek, the route is over the high-rolling prairie, upon a smooth and hard trail. The want of water is the only annoyance that is experienced by the travellers, and a long day's journey is necessary to bring them to the nearest creek – a branch of the Kansas River. The banks of the creek are steep, and considerable toil is requisite to cross it.

The crossing of the Kansas River is the next difficulty to be met. There is a regular ferry about five miles from where the emigrants cross the tributary creek. At that place the river is never more than two hundred yards wide, even after heavy rains. The wagons are placed in boats, owned by the Indians, and transported to the opposite shore for the sum of one dollar per load. The oxen and horses are compelled to swim across. Following the trail for about three miles, a place of encampment, on the banks of Soldier Creek, is reached. The soil in the neighborhood of the Kansas is luxuriantly productive, and the most refreshing verdure meets the eye along the trails from that river to Soldier Creek. The route is then pursued over a flat plain – boggy in some places – for several miles, till another creek is reached, the banks of which are steep, and this, as in other cases, make its crossing a matter of great toil. The trail then runs over a high, undulating country, presenting every variety of scenery, as far as Black Paint Creek, near which are two Kansas Indian villages. The Kansas are a friendly tribe, and if they were not, they are not powerful enough to attack large parties of emigrants. They are somewhat disposed to pilfer whatever they can conveniently, and require close watching.

After crossing the creek, the trail is followed through a fertile valley, across Hurricane Creek, which is somewhat difficult of passage, and then over an open and rolling prairie, broken by small branches and ravines. Many places, convenient for encamping, are to be found on the route, some of which have springs of pure cold water. Farther on, the ground becomes more broken, and Vermilion Creek, a large and rapid stream, is reached. Its banks are steep, and its fording very toilsome and difficult. Between this creek and the Big Blue, there is neither wood nor water to be obtained, and therefore, it is customary for the emigrants to fill their casks at this place. The ground between the two streams, a distance of ten miles, is more broken than any upon the former part of the route, and on arriving at the Big Blue, a steep descent is made to the low, bottom lands near the river. The usual width of the Big Blue is about a hundred yards, at which time alone it is fordable. It becomes much swollen by heavy rains, and very rapid in its current.

Arising from the bottom of the Big Blue River, the emigrants are again upon the high and undulating prairie. Every variety of scenery is presented to the view, and springs of water, issuing from the cliffy banks of the small branches and ravines, and shaded by groves of trees offer many places for rest and refreshment. Fourteen miles from the Big Blue, one of its tributaries, exceedingly difficult to cross with large wagons and teams, is met with. After passing it, the trail runs over a smooth inclined plane for the distance of twelve miles, to another encamping place for emigrants, upon the banks of a small creek. From that creek there is a gradual ascent for the distance of about fourteen miles, and then a beautiful valley, through which flows a small stream, meets the eye of the wearied emigrants, and offers groves of oak to serve for places of rest. Then there is another gradual ascent, through a country which is more sandy and less fertile than any met with upon the former part of the route, for more than twenty miles. The Little Blue is then reached, and the train continues along up the banks of the stream for the distance of about fifty miles; the road being dry and firm, except in a few ravines. The trail then diverges from the stream to the right, ascending over the bluffs, into the high table land of the prairie, and continues to ascend gradually until the bluffs overlooking the valley of the Platte River, are reached. The soil along this part of the trail is sandy, and the grass rather scarce; but water can be obtained at several places.

The Platte River is about one hundred and fifty yards in breadth where the trail reaches it. The current is sluggish and turbid, and the water is very shallow. The trail continues along the banks of the river, the course of which is nearly from west to east, and the road is all that could be wished for travelling. The bluffs which skirt the valley present considerable variety, and as the route is continued, they become more elevated and broken. The soil of the valley becomes less fertile and the vegetation is thin and short. After traversing the valley of the Platte for the distance of one hundred and thirty miles, the trail crosses the river and continues along the northern bank of the south fork for about twelve miles, when it diverges from the stream to pass over the prairie to the north fork. The distance from the south to the north fork of the Platte, by the emigrant trail, is about twenty-two miles, without water. The country between the two streams is high and rolling. The soil is poor, the grass short, and no trees or shrubs are visible. The trail descends into the valley of the north fork of the Platte, through a pass known as Ash Hollow. There is but one steep or difficult place for wagons in the pass, and in the valley will be found a spring of pure cool water. At this place, there is a sort of post office, where letters are left by emigrants, with requests that they shall be taken to the States by those who pass this way.

For several miles from Ash Hollow the trail passes over a sandy soil, which is very soft, but which afterwards becomes firmer. The scenery then presents the aspect of barrenness and desolation. Sand and rocks are all that meet the view for many miles. The landscape then assumes a greener and more refreshing appearance, and groves of trees relieve the emigrants from pursuing their way any farther during the day. Farther on, the well-known landmark, called the "Chimney Rock," which can be seen at a great distance, is met by the emigrants. It is composed of soft rock, and is several hundred feet high. The scenery in the neighbourhood of the rock is very remarkable and picturesque. There are a number of rocky elevations which present the appearance of vast temples and pyramids, with domes and spires partially in ruins. Over a sandy soil, the trail is pursued for about twenty miles, the surrounding scenery being of the most sublime and singular character. Near a remarkable rocky conformation, called "Scott's Bluff," the trail leaves the river, and runs over a smooth valley in the rear of the bluff. It there ascends to the top of the dividing ridge, from which the Rocky Mountains can be seen. Descending from the ridge, it passes over a barren country, broken by deep chasms and ravines, for about twelve miles, when Horse Creek is reached. From that creek, the trail is followed to the Platte River, where a place for encampment is found, though the grass is very indifferent. Continuing for several miles through a barren country, the trail is followed to "Fort Bernard," a small building, rudely constructed of logs, used as a trading-post. Eight miles farther on, is Fort Laramie, or Fort John, as it is sometimes called. This fort has been the principal trading-post of the American Fur Company. It is situated in the Laramie River, near its junction with the Platte, and is six hundred and seventy-two miles from Independence. The building is quadrangular, and is constructed of adobé, or sun-dried bricks. Its walls are surmounted by watch-towers and its gate is defended by two brass swivels.

From Fort Laramie, the trail continues on through a broken country, to the Platte River, a distance of twenty miles. Crossing a small creek which empties into the Platte, it proceeds through the dry bed of one of its branches, over a deep sand for six or eight miles, and reaches the summit of a high ridge. From thence it descends into a narrow valley, through which flows a small stream of pure water. Another ridge of hills is then ascended, and a wild, desolate, but picturesque scene is presented to the view. Numerous lofty mountain peaks, barren rocks, and a vast prospect of low conical hills are the principal features. Through a country, the principal features of which are of this description, the trail is followed, and the monotony of the journey is only relieved by an occasional stoppage at a refreshing spring of water. The trail gradually ascends towards the summit of the Rocky Mountains, and the country becomes more broken and sterile, till it reaches Beaver Creek, a tributary of the Platte. There the grass and water are good, and the wood is abundant. The country exhibits every indication of fertility upon the trail leading from Beaver Creek, and pure and limpid streams are frequent, until the Platte River is again struck and followed upon its southern bank, for the distance of about eighteen miles. The river is then forded, and the trail ascends the high bluffs overlooking the valley, and proceeds over several miles of table-land till the valley of the Platte is again reached. At this point, the trail finally leaves the Platte, and, ascending the bluffs on the right, passes over an arid plain diversified with immense piles of rocks, deep ravines and chasms, and presenting a wide-spread sterility and desolation, for the distance of forty miles. Water is to be obtained in very small quantities and at few places on this part of the trail, and, therefore a scarcity should be provided for before leaving the Platte. At the end of that distance, the trail descends into a small valley, where spring water can be obtained and some refreshing shade. Ascending from this valley, the trail gradually ascends to the summit of a dividing ridge, from which a view of the Sweetwater River Mountains can be obtained. Descending from the ridge, a small stream, the grassy banks of which serve for an encampment, is soon reached. Farther on is a well-known landmark among the mountains, called Independence Rock. It is an isolated elevation, composed of masses of rock, about one hundred feet in height, and a mile in circumference, standing near the northern bend of the Sweetwater River, and between the ranges of mountains which border the valley of that stream.

The trail proceeds up the Sweetwater River, and passes a remarkable fissure in the Rocky Mountain wall, which is called the Devil's Gate. The fissure is about thirty feet in breadth, and the perpendicular walls on each side of the channel of the stream which flows through it, are nearly three hundred feet high. The trail leaves the river about twelve miles from where it first strikes it, and then returns to it after traversing about sixteen miles. It again diverges from the river and crosses a broken and arid plain, which presents but few signs of vegetation. Passing through a gap between two ranges of granite mountains, the first view of the Wind River Mountains is obtained. The trail then proceeds through a narrow valley several miles in length, the surface of which is white with an alkaline efflorescence, and then returns to the Sweetwater River. Continuing up the valley of the Sweetwater, occasionally leaving the bank of the stream and passing over the rolling and barren tablelands, it crosses two small creeks which present good places for encampment. Several miles farther on, the trail crosses the Sweetwater River, and then leaves it finally, making a gradual ascent to the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains, or the dividing ridge which separate the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific.

After the summit of the ridge is reached, the trail passes two or three miles over a level surface, and then descends to the spring, well known to emigrants as the "Pacific Spring." The water from this spring is emptied into the Colorado River of the West, which river empties into the Gulf of California. This Pacific Spring is two miles west of the South Pass, and nine hundred and eighty-three miles from Independence, Missouri.

From the Pacific Spring, the trail passes over an arid, undulating plain, in a west-by-north course, for about twenty-eight miles, when the "Little Sandy" River, a branch of the Green or Colorado River, presents itself, and furnishes the first water after leaving Pacific Spring. From the Little Sandy River, the trail passes over a plain of white sand or clay, and within twelve miles reaches the Big Sandy River, and passes along it for about eighteen miles, and then strikes off and crosses the Green River, or Colorado of the West. This river is shallow and only about seventy yards broad. The trail then continues down the Green River a short distance, and then, making a right angle, ascends the bluffs bordering the valley of the stream, in nearly a west course. The country then becomes still more broken and barren, and the trail ascends gradually to the summit of a ridge, from which it descends to the banks of the Black Fork, a tributary of the Green River. This Black Fork is crossed several times upon the route, but is not more than sixty yards wide and is very shallow. The trail leaves it to cut off the bends and then returns to it. The scenery along this part of the route is interesting, but the soil is frightfully sterile. Diverging from the stream the trail passes over a barren plain with no vegetation upon it except the wild sage, so common even in the most sterile country, and then passes through a bottom of grass, offering a good place for an encampment.

Near this place is Fort Bridger, a small trading-post established by a Mr. Bridger. The buildings are two or three rudely constructed log cabins, and they are situated in a handsome fertile bottom, on the banks of a small stream. This fort is about eleven hundred miles from Independence, Missouri. From Fort Bridger, many parties anxious to explore the country, take the route by way of the south end of the great Salt Lake. But the scarcity of water and the other difficulties encountered in crossing the sterile plains and the great Salt Desert should be sufficient to deter emigrants with families from taking that direction. Oxen could not travel fast enough from one watering-place to another, and must necessarily perish from thirst. Besides, the route is but poorly defined, and may be wandered from very easily.

The trail of the old route, and the one taken by most of the emigrants, leaves Fort Bridger, and pursues a north-westerly course, through the Bear River valley, which it leaves at a remarkable landmark called Sheep Rock, and crossing a dividing ridge reaches Fort Hall, by the valley of the Portneaf River. This fort was established by the Hudson Bay Company, and it is the seat of a considerable trade in furs with the Indians and trappers. From Fort Hall the trail continues on till it reaches the valley of Mary's River. There a tolerably fertile soil and refreshing vegetation greets the eye of the travel-worn emigrant. The trail crosses the river five or six times in as many miles, in order to take advantage of the narrow bottoms made by the windings of the stream. The bottom is skirted by very high ranges of mountains to where the trail leaves it, and turning to the right ascends over low, gravelly hills. Descending from the summit of a ridge of hills, it passes through a valley where good grass and water can be obtained – the valley containing several springs of pure cold water. Emerging from this valley through a narrow gap, the trail passes into another still more extensive, and pursues a south-westerly direction for about twenty miles, keeping near the margin of Mary's River. A succession of low hills are crossed, and another valley is reached. During the journey through these valleys, the emigrants are exposed to the fiery rays of the sun, and the hot winds from the desert are very oppressive. The trail then follows the course of the river in a direction nearly north-west, through valleys, or plains of great extent, and mountainous defiles, occasionally following a bend of the river towards the south-west. The greater portion of these valleys is barren, but there are frequent fertile spots near the boiling springs. The only Indians met on this part of the route are the diggers, and they do not possess the power to do much harm, if they even were hostile; but they are friendly. The want of water is the principal annoyance.

Passing over the desolate valleys and hills that border Mary's River, the trail descends into a large circular basin, in which a place for encamping is found, but with little water. From this basin, it crosses some considerable elevations and then a totally barren plain ten miles wide. Beyond this, water and grass of tolerable quality are soon found; and there, if possible, a supply should be obtained sufficient to last for a long day's journey. Rounding the base of a mountain, the trail takes a south-west course, across a totally barren plain. No sign of the river, or the existence of any water is exhibited. Near the southern edge of the plain, which is twenty miles in extent, some pools of standing water are found, and the place is known as the "Sink of Mary's River." From these pools to the Truckee, or Salmon Trout River, the distance is forty-five miles. The trail is followed over the hills of ashy earth, in which the mules often sink to their bellies, and over a ground destitute of any vegetation, except occasional clumps of wild sage. A ridge of mountains is then ascended by an easy inclined plain, and a view of the distant range of Sierra Nevada is obtained on reaching the summit. The intervening valley presents as barren a prospect as the country immediately preceding it. Descending into it, numerous boiling springs are found, which often serve to delude the thirsty emigrants. But by damming up the streams which flow from them, the water may be cooled, and, although impregnated with salt, sulphur, and magnesia, it may quench the thirst. The phenomenon of mirage is frequently presented to the view of the emigrants, and it very often assumes the appearance of things unknown to that desert region, such as lakes, cascades, and foaming and tumbling waters. About twelve miles from the springs, a ridge of sandy hills, running across the valley, is ascended, and then an elevated plain of about ten miles in extent is crossed by the trail. Over this plain the travelling is very laborious – the sand being very deep. But at length the Truckee River is reached, and water, grass and trees, larger than any upon the former part of the route for five hundred miles preceding, greet the wearied and thirsty emigrant.

The Truckee River is about fifty feet in breadth with a shallow but rapid current of clear water. The bottom land is exceedingly fertile, and game is sometimes to be obtained in its neighborhood. The trail crosses the Truckee very frequently, in its winding course, but the country being agreeable, this is not considered toilsome by the emigrant, after traversing the barren plains in the vicinity of Mary's River. The course of the Truckee is nearly from the south-west to the north-east, and in some places it passes between very high mountains, affording scarcely room for travellers to pass. Sometimes the trail is followed through fertile valleys and then over barren hills and rocky passes till the summit of a gap in the mountains is reached, and a pleasant valley opens to the view, offering a fine place for encampment. The trail then turns to the left, and proceeds in a southerly direction, crossing the Truckee several times, until the Truckee Lake breaks upon the view. This small sheet of water is surrounded by lofty mountains, except upon the side where its outlet flows from it. The trail strikes the shore of the lake at its eastern end, and continues around its north-eastern side over a very difficult, boggy road. Having reached the upper end of the lakes, the trail leaves the shore on the right hand, ascends over some rocky hills, and, crossing some deep ravines and swampy ground, arrives at the base of the crest of the Sierra Nevada. Then comes the ascent of the steep pass – a work of difficulty and danger. The mules are compelled to leap from crag to crag, and, when heavily laden, are often precipitated backward in climbing the almost perpendicular rocks.

Having attained the summit of the pass, the view is inexpressibly grand and comprehensive. A mile journey upon the top of the mountain brings the traveller to a small lake, surrounded by good grass, which is often used as a place of encampment. Leaving the lake on the right hand, the trail descends over the rocky ground for a few miles, and then enters a beautiful valley about five miles long. Through this valley, which is called the Yuba valley, by the emigrants, flows the Yuba River, a tributary of the Feather River, and the scene of considerable gold digging and washing. This is the commencement of the gold region, and after their journey through the wilderness, here the emigrants greet the "promised land." From this point to Sacramento city, the great terminus of the overland emigration, it is about sixty miles; but the trading post of Yuba, Johnson's ranche, Vernon, and the other posts, offer convenient intermediate resting places.