Beeton's Book of Needlework

NETTING

NETTING INSTRUCTIONS

302.–NETTING is one of the prettiest and one of the easiest accomplishments of a lady. The materials are simple, while the effects produced by good netting are most elegant and of great durability. One great advantage of netting is that each stitch is finished and independent of the next, so that if an accident happens to one stitch it does not, as in crochet or knitting, spoil the whole work.

Netting, so easy to do, is most difficult to describe. The materials required are–a netting-needle and mesh (see illustration No. 302). These are made of bone, of wood, of ivory, and most commonly of steel. The wood, bone, and ivory are only used for netting wool, the steel for silk, cotton, &c.

The needle is filled by passing the end of the thread through the little hole at the left-hand point, and tying it; then the thread is wound on the needle as on a tatting shuttle. The needles are numbered from 12 to 24; these last are extremely fine. The meshes correspond to the sizes of the needles, and are made of the same materials. The larger the size of the stitch required the thicker the mesh must be selected; indeed, large hat meshes are often used for some patterns. A stirrup to slip over the foot to which the foundation is attached is required by those who do not use a netting cushion, placed before them on the table and heavily weighted; to this the foundation is fastened.

The stirrup is made of a loop of ribbon, to which the foundation is tied. Some ladies work a pretty stirrup of the exact shape of a horseman's stirrup; a loop of ribbon is passed through this, and the foundation fixed as before.

303.–

To Net

.

Place the mesh under the thread, between the thumb and finger of the left hand; it must rest on the middle of the finger and be held only by the thumb (see illustration No. 303). Take the needle in the right hand, pass the thread over the middle and ring finger and over the mesh, pass the needle upwards and behind the mesh in the large loop which forms the thread round the fingers, and at the same time through the first stitch or loop of the foundation. Draw the needle out, retaining the loops on the fingers and dropping them off, the little finger being the last to release the thread. As the thread tightens and the knot is firm, the loop on the little finger should be drawn up quickly and smartly. The next stitches are precisely similar, and row upon row is formed in the same manner. Having learnt the stitch, the next task is to make a foundation. Tie a large loop of strong thread on the stirrup ribbon, and net fifty stitches into this loop, then net four or five rows, and the foundation is ready.

Simple netting as above explained forms diamonds or lozenges. When a piece of netting is finished it is cut off the foundation, and the little ends of thread that held the stitches are drawn out.

304.–

Square Netting

.

Is done precisely in the same manner as plain netting, only begin from one stitch, then net two stitches into this first, and increase by making two in the last loop of every row. As soon as the right number of stitches is complete diminish exactly in the same way by netting two stitches as one at the end of each row until one stitch alone remains. These squares are used for guipure d'art and for darning on.

305.–

Round Netting

Is nearly similar to plain netting. A little difference exists in the way of passing the needle through the stitch; this is shown in No. 305. After having passed the needle through the stitch it is drawn out and passed from above into the loop just made. This stitch is very effective for purses.

306.–

Diamond Netting

Is often called "pointed netting," and is made by netting from one stitch, increasing one stitch at the end of each row, and decreasing in the same way, as described at page 303.

307.–

To Net Rounds

.

To form a circle, as for a purse, the needle must pass through the first stitch, keeping the last three or four on the mesh and removing this when required by the work.

308.–

"English" Netting

Is made as follows:–Net a row of plain netting, begin the second row by netting the second stitch, then net the first; repeat, always passing by one stitch and taking it up.

3rd Row

--Plain.

4th Row

--Begin by a plain stitch, then continue as in the 2nd row.

5th Row

--Plain.

309.–

Lace Edging

.

Begin by one stitch and net two in one at the end of each row until as many stitches are required for the narrowest part of the edge. * Increase one then in the two loops until the point of the edge or scallop is reached; at the next row leave the squares which form the point, and begin from *.

310.–

Open Lace

.

This kind of edging is made with two meshes of different sizes and extremely fine crochet cotton.

Tie the thread to the foundation, net 3 rows with the small mesh of the required length.

4th Row

--On the large mesh, one stitch in each stitch.

5th Row

--On the small mesh take 3 stitches together to form 1 loop; repeat to end of row.

6th Row

--On the large mesh make 5 loops in each stitch; repeat to end of row.

7th Row

--On the small mesh, one loop in each of the 4 first stitches, pass over the 5th, repeat to end.

8th Row

--On the small mesh make a loop in each of the two first stitches, pass over the 4th; repeat.

9th Row

--On the small mesh make a loop in each of the two first stitches, pass over the 3rd; repeat.

This lace is often used in fine wool of two colours to trim opera-caps, children's hoods, &c.

311.–

Shell Border

.

This border is intended as an edging for square netting for couvrettes, d'oyleys, &c. The mesh must be three times as long as that employed for the square netting.

Make 12 stitches in the first stitch of the edge, pass over 8, make 12 in the ninth, and repeat. Then take the mesh used for the square netting, and net one stitch in each stitch, take a still smaller mesh, and complete by adding another row of one stitch in each stitch.

This border forms a very appropriate edging for all articles in square netting, as couvrettes, mats, also for trimming guipure d'art work, and should be netted in the row of holes edging the work; two sets of shells must be worked at the corners when a little fulness is required.

KNITTING AND NETTING PATTERNS

312.–

Knitted Sock for a Child.

Materials for 1 pair: 1 ounce of single Berlin wool; 1 yard of narrow pink or blue ribbon; 2 fine steel pins.

This sock fits well, and is easy to make. It is knitted upon two pins, backwards and forwards. Cast on 22 stitches and knit 22 rows, but increase once at the end of every other row on the right side of the work, so that there are 33 stitches in the 22nd row. Now cast off 28 stitches and knit 12 rows, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every other row. Now 12 more rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of every other row; this forms the toe. Cast on 28 stitches on the same needle, and knit 22 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of every other row, and cast off. Pick up the 68 stitches on the upper part of shoe, and knit 20 rows, alternately 2 plain and 2 purl rows, decreasing 1 stitch on each side of the 12 stitches in every other row, which forms the toe and front of sock. Knit 14 rows of 2 plain, 2 purl stitches alternately, then 3 open rows with 1 plain row between. The open rows are worked as follows:–* Purl 2 together, purl 1, make 1, repeat *, 3 plain rows, 1 open row, 1 plain row, and cast off. The sock is sewn together down the back of leg, centre of sole, and the point joined like a gusset to form the toe.

313.–

Knitted Pattern for Counterpanes, Berceaunette Covers, Couvrettes, Antimacassars, &c.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton; 5 steel knitting-needles of a corresponding size.

According to the size of the cotton employed, this beautiful square makes different articles, such as counterpanes, couvrettes, &c. &c. If worked with Evans's cotton No. 10, it will be suitable for the first-mentioned purpose.

Begin the square in the centre, cast on 8 stitches, 2 on each needle; join them into a circle, and knit plain the 1st round.

2nd round:

 * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1; repeat 3 times more from *.

3rd round:

 Plain knitting. This knitted round is repeated after every pattern round. We shall not mention this again, nor the repetition from *.

4th round:

 * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

6th round:

 * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

8th round:

 * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

The 9th to 18th rounds are knitted in the same manner, only in every other round the number of stitches between the 2 stitches formed by throwing the cotton forward increases by 2, so that in the 18th round 15 stitches are knitted between.

20th round:

 * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

22nd round:

 * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 4, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

24th round:

 * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch; throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

26th round:

 * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward 3 times alternately, slip 1, knit 1, draw the first over the last, throw the cotton forward; knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, draw the first over the last, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, three times alternately, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

28th round:

 * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, four times alternately, throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch; throw the cotton forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch; knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, four times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

30th round:

 * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, six times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 1 six times alternately, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

32nd round:

34th round:

 * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 7 times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 1, 7 times alternately knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

36th round:

 * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 7 times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 4 stitches together, 7 times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

38th round:

 * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 8 times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the, slipped over the knitted stitch, 8 times alternately knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

40th round:

 * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 8 times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 stitches together as 1 stitch, 8 times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton torward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. You now have 41 stitches on each needle; knit 1 round, and cast off. When completed, the squares are joined together on the wrong side.

314.–

Knitted Sleeping Sock.

Materials for one pair: 4 ounces white fleecy, 3 ply; 1 ounces light blue fleecy.

These socks are knitted with white and blue wool in a diamond pattern, and in rounds like a stocking. Begin at the upper part of the sock; cast on 103 stitches with blue wool on pretty thick steel knitting-needles, and knit 20 rounds of the diamond pattern as follows:–

1st round:

 Quite plain.

2nd round:

 Purled; both these rounds are worked with blue wool.

3rd to 6th rounds:

 Knitted plain with white wool.

7th round:

With blue wool; knit 3, draw the wool through the next stitch of the 2nd round worked with blue wool, draw it out as a loop, keep it on the needle, knit again 3 stitches, and so on. 8th round: With blue wool; the loop which has been taken up on the preceding round is purled off together with the preceding stitch. Repeat the 3rd and 8th rounds twice more; the loop of one round must be placed between those of the preceding one. Then knit with white wool 31 rounds, alternately 2 stitches knitted, 2 stitches purled, then work the foot in the diamond pattern in the same way as usual for a stocking. The heel is formed by leaving 23 stitches on each side the seam stitch, and knitted backwards and forwards in the diamond pattern. At the toe decrease so that the decreasings form a seam on both sides of the toe. This is obtained by knitting the 3rd and 4th stitches of the 1st needle together; on the 2nd needle slip the 4th stitch before the last, knit the next stitch and draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one; decrease in the same manner on the other 2 needles of this round. Repeat these decreasings exactly in the same direction and at the same places, so that there are always 4 stitches between the 2 decreasings at the end and at the beginning of 2 needles; they always take place after 3 or 2 plain rounds, and at last after 1 plain round. The remaining stitches are knitted off 2 and 2 together. To complete the sock, the outline of the sole is marked by working slip stitches with blue wool in crochet all round it; work also slip stitches on the selvedge stitch of the heel. The stocking is finished off at the top with a double round of loops in blue wool, worked over a mesh four-fifths of an inch wide.

315 and 316.–Netted Fichu or Cape.

Material: Fine wool, or white and blue silk; netting needle and meshes.

This fichu or cape is made either with fine wool or with silk used three or four times double. It may be worn as an evening wrap, either over a cap or on the hair, or as a necktie. The ground in our pattern is white, the border blue. The illustration of the ground and of the border, in full size, will serve as a guide for the size of the meshes to be used. For the ground cast on the first mesh, with white silk, 56 stitches; work 2 rows on the 56 stitches. From the 3rd row, always miss the last stitch, so that each row is decreased 1 stitch. Continue in this manner till the 39th row, when there will be but 19 stitches left. From the 40th row, miss 2 stitches at the end of each row. The ground is completed with the 46th row. The 1st row of the work is the

cross-way side

; the last, the

point at the bottom

; fasten on the blue silk to the 1st stitch of the 1st row, and on a larger mesh work 1 row round the ground of the fichu, not forgetting that the stitch on the outer edge at the sides must always be taken, and 2 stitches made in the 5th, 10th, 14th, 18th, 21st, 23rd, and 25th stitches at the sides, as well as in each of the 2 middle stitches of the last row; in each of the other stitches 1 stitch should be made. On the corners of the sides increase

once

, on the cross-way side, seven times in all.

This forms the 1st round of the edging or lace.

2nd round of the lace:

 In each stitch make 2 stitches–still on the larger mesh. 3rd round: Always miss the small flat scallop formed in last row, and work 2 stitches in the stitch which forms a tight loop. Keep thus the same number of stitches, with which work 6 more rounds. For the last round, work 1 stitch in each

tight

 loop.

317.–Lady's Knitted Purse.

Materials: 2 skeins of black purse silk; 2 skeins of scarlet ditto; black jet beads; a steel clasp with chain; a tassel of black beads; 5 steel knitting-needles.

This purse is knitted with black and scarlet purse silk, and ornamented with black beads and a black bead tassel. Begin the purse with the black silk in the centre of the bottom part, and cast on for one part of it 7 stitches. Knit 14 rows on these backwards and forwards, in such a manner that the work is knitted on one side and purled on the other. The 1st stitch of every row is slipped, the 1st row of this part is purled. * On that side where hangs the thread with which you work take the back chain of the 7 selvedge stitches of the part you have just knitted on a separate needle, and knit another part, which must have 15 rows, and the 1st row of which is knitted. Repeat 10 times more from *. The stitches of several parts can be taken on the same needle, so as not to be hindered in working by too many needles. When the 12th part is completed, take the selvedge stitches on the left hand on another needle, cast them off together with the cast on stitches of the 1st part, and fasten the silk thread. Then take the 7 right-hand selvedge stitches of one black part on a needle, take the red silk on which the beads have been strung and work 15 rows on these stitches, the 1st row from the wrong side, and therefore purled; in the 1st, as well as in all the other purled rows, the last stitch must be purled together with the next stitch of the next black part. In the purled rows, moreover, excepting in the first and last one, a bead must be worked in after casting off the 2nd, 4th, and 6th stitches. The stitch must be worked by inserting the needle into the back part, and in drawing through the silk which has been thrown forward, let the bead slide through the stitch so that it is on the right side of the work. In the following knitted row, the needle must also be inserted into the back part of the bead stitch. When 12 such red parts have been completed, work again 12 black parts on the selvedge stitch of the same, in which the beads are not knitted in, but sewn on afterwards, when the purse is completed. Then work 3 times more alternately 12 red and 12 black parts; when the last 12 black parts have been completed cast off the stitches of the last black part together with the selvedge stitches, the 1st on the wrong side; the stitches of the 6th part are cast off in the same manner together with the selvedge stitches of the 7th. The red parts which remain to be worked on the black part are thus lessened by 2; the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, and the 7th, 8th, and 9th of these parts must be by 6 rows longer. Then gather all the stitches and selvedge stitches of the 10 parts on 2 needles, in such a manner that the 2 black parts, the stitches and selvedge stitches of which have been cast off together, are placed on the sides of the purse, and knit as follows with black silk, first on the stitches of the one needle, and then on those of the other:–1 row knitted, knitting together every 3rd and 4th stitch; then work 3 rows backwards and forwards on the same number of stitches, which must be knitted on the right side; then work 8 rows more in the same manner, casting off the 2 first stitches of the 8 rows. Then cast off all the remaining stitches, sew the beads on the black parts from illustration; also the clasp and bead tassel.

318 to 320.–

Knitted Antimacassar or Berceaunelle Cover.

Materials: Grey and violot fleecy wool.

This antimacassar, part of which is seen on No. 320, smaller than full size, is made of rosettes and small squares, which are knitted separately with violet and grey fleecy wool with fine knitting-needles. In the middle of each rosette sew on a tatted circle of grey wool. The edge of the antimacassar is ornamented with a grey woollen fringe. For each rosette cast on 6 stitches with violet wool, and knit 12 rows backwards and forwards in such a manner that the work is knitted on one side and purled on the other: the first of these 12 rows is purled, the first stitch of every row is slipped; * then take the first five selvedge stitches of the knitted part on a separate needle (on the side where the end of wool hangs down, leaving it unnoticed for the present), inserting the needle into the back chain of the stitch (the selvedge stitch which is next to the cast-on stitch remains, therefore, unworked upon), and knit on these a new part, which must have 13 rows; the first row is knitted, and in this row work 2 stitches in the first stitch, one purled and one knitted, so that this new part is equally six stitches wide. Repeat 8 times more from *. After having worked several parts, the stitches can, of course, be taken on the same needle, so as not to increase the number of needles. When the 10th part is completed, take the selvedge stitches of the left-hand side of the same on a separate needle, cast them off with the cast-on stitches of the first part, and fasten the wool. Then take the 6 selvedge stitches on the right hand of one part on a separate needle; take the grey wool, and work on these stitches 13 rows backwards and forwards; the first row is knitted; it is worked on the right side of the work; in this, and in every following

knitted

 row, knit the last stitch together with the next stitch of the next violet part. When 10 such grey parts are completed (each of the remaining 9 parts consists of 13 rows, and begins with one knitted row), take all the stitches and the selvedge stitches of these parts on four needles and knit with these stitches, also with grey wool 1 row knitted, in which the 6 selvedge stitches must be decreased to 3 by knitting always 2 stitches together as 1 stitch; each of the other stitches is knitted as usual. Then purl 2 rows with violet wool, and cast off.

For the tatted circle in the centre of the rosette, work with grey wool a circle consisting of 1 double, and 11 times alternately 1 purl 3-10ths of an inch long, 2 double, then 1 purl and 1 double. The circle is sewn on the rosette, from illustration, with grey wool. No. 319 shows such a rosette full size. The small squares (

see

 No. 318) are worked with grey wool; cast on 36 stitches, join the stitches into a circle, and purl 2 rows. To form the corners, knit together 4 times 2 stitches after every 7 stitches in the first of these two rounds, in the second round knit together 2 stitches after every 6 stitches; these decreasings and those of the other rounds must always take place, at the same places as in the preceding round. Then take the violet wool, and knit 7 rows; in the first of these knit 4 times 2 stitches together after intervals of 5 stitches; no decreasings take place in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th rows; in the 3rd row knit together 4 times 3 stitches as 1 stitch, and in the 5th and 7th rows 4 times 2 stitches as 1 stitch. After the 7th round, the remaining stitches are cast off together as 1 stitch. Then fasten the wool and cut it off. Lastly, sew the rosettes and squares together from No. 320 for a cover, and edge it round the border with a fringe of grey wool.

321.–

Knitted Border.

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No. 10 or No. 50 knitting cotton.

If knitted with thick cotton, this border will be suitable for trimming a quilt or berceaunette cover; if, on the contrary, fine cotton is used, the pattern will form a very pretty collar for a little boy or girl.

To make a collar, begin by a chain of 220 stitches, and work 6 rows backwards and forwards alternately, knitting 4 stitches and purling 2.

In the 2nd, 4th, and 6th rows the 4 stitches are purled, and the 2 are knitted.

7th row:

 * Purl 2, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from *.

8th row:

 Alternately purl 5, knit 2. All the rows with

even

 numbers are knitted like this, except that the number of the knitted stitches are increased by 2 in each of them. We will not, therefore, henceforth mention these rows.

9th row:

 * Knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from *.

11th row:

 * Knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from *.

13th row:

 * Knit 2, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from *. The pattern is continued in the same manner. The small gores formed between the ribs are increased by 2 stitches in every second row. Each of these gores has 13 stitches in the 21st row, which is the last. Cast off all the stitches after this row.

Take a crochet needle, and with the same cotton as that used for the knitting work 1 stitch of double crochet in every stitch of the selvedge, then the 2 following rows for the edging. 1st row: Alternately 1 treble, 1 chain, under which miss 1.

2nd row:

 Alternately 1 double over 1 treble of preceding row, 1 purl (that is, 5 chain and 1 slip stitch in the first), under which miss 1. Over the first row of the knitting work 1 row of close double crochet. The border is now completed.

322.–

Knee-cap in Knitting.

Materials: For 1 pair, 4 oz. pink 4-thread fleecy wool, and a small quantity of white ditto.

Begin each knee-cap by casting on with pink wool 114 stitches, equally divided upon 4 needles, and joining them into a circle. Upon this number of stitches work 47 rounds, alternately knitting and purling 2 stitches. In the 48th round begin the gore which covers the knee; it is worked separately backward and forwards, always alternately knitting and purling 2 stitches.

After 2 rows change the pattern, so as to form small squares Knit the first row of this gore upon 26 stitches slipped off from the last row on to a separate needle. At the end of each following row knit the nearest stitch of the nearest needle, so as to increase 1 stitch in each row of the gore.

Continue in this way until only 42 stitches remain of the ribbed part. After this work the remainder of the gore separately, decreasing once at the beginning and end of each row till only 26 stitches remain; then take up 23 stitches of the selvedge on each side of these 26 stitches, and work 47 rounds, alternately knitting and purling 2 stitches.

The edging at the top and bottom of the knee-cap is worked in crochet. With white wool make a chain of 50 stitches; turn and work 1 row of crochet

à tricoter

; then work a second row thus: the first part, as usual, with white, but coming back, with pink make 4 chain between each stitch, work in the same way on the other side of the foundation chain, thus forming a small ruche, and sew it on to the edge of the knitting.

323.–

Knitted Neckerchief in Black Shetland Wool.

Material: Black Shetland wool.

This three-cornered neckerchief is knitted in the following pattern (commencing at the corner).

1st row:

 slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together, inserting the needle into the back part of the stitch, slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together.

2nd row:

 Knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in the preceding row; the other stitches are purled. In the next row the holes are alternated; the neckerchief must of course be increased at the beginning and end of every other row. It measures at the upper edge 1 yard 16 inches across from one corner to the other; the lower corner is rounded off. The neckerchief is edged with a knitted lace.

The lace is worked in rows backwards and forwards, the cross way. Cast on 22 stitches and work the 1st row as follows:–Slip 1, knit 11, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6.

2nd row:

 Slip 1, purl 18, knit 1 and purl 1 with the stitch formed in the preceding row by throwing the wool forward.

3rd row:

 Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 5.

4th row:

 Slip 1, purl 5, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1 in the stitch formed in the preceding row by throwing the wool forward, purl 13.

5th row:

 Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 4.

6th row:

 Slip 1, purl 8, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 9.

7th row:

 Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward 4 times alternately, knit 2 together, knit 4.

8th row:

 Slip 1, purl 3, knit 1,